Wednesday, January 26, 2011

The Idealogical Immune System : Resistance to New Ideas in Science

The following is from an article published by Sceptic Magazine and authored by Jay Stuart Snelson. I couldn't find a link but the original was published in Sceptic magazine, volume 1, number 4 so I am pasting it here verbatim so that I can link to it because I think it is such an important article.

The Ideological Immune System:
Resistance to New Ideas in Science

by Jay Stuart Snelson


As our biological immune system protects our bodies from an invasion of foreign agents and pathogens, so does our ideological immune system protect our minds from an invasion of foreign ideas and doctrines. The history of the creation and disclosure of scientific ideas shows us that the more important, profound, and revolutionary a new idea, the more likely educated, intelligent, successful adults will resist understanding and accepting those new ideas. All of us have one: Our ideological immune system resists acceptance of any new ideas that would overturn any of our old basic ideas. Science is forever forging outrageous heresies that rock the boat of convention. It is the nature of science to give birth to foreign ideas that are alien to our sheltered ways of thinking. Should we allow our ideological immune systems to protect us? Or can we somehow suppress our ideological immune systems and embrace those ideas that are new and revolutionary. Do we have a choice, and if so, can science guide our choice?

For more than three centuries, the scientific method has been a peerless engine of discovery and invention. But no matter how profound the discovery or useful the invention, such advances are powerless to enrich humanity until their worth can be demonstrated to an influential audience. The history of science and technology is a record of the futility of new discovery and new invention without an influential backer to herald their worth. People are prone to value those things they are taught to value: the conventional and the familiar. Thus, new discovery needs a defender; new invention needs a champion.

Discovery and invention are often greeted as unwelcome intruders because they inaugurate new truth through new explanations of causality. A new truth may be seen as a new threat. Those threatened by new truth may ignore the truth, hide the truth, distort the truth, destroy the truth, or reject the truth to gain some perceived or real advantage. Those who attack, however, the most confirmed and verified truths, may not always do so out of fear. Their assault upon truth may be motivated by high ideals and a zeal for the preservation of some — as they perceive it — greater truth.

As the methods of science reward us with better explanations of causality, they give birth to new paradigms built on new validated truths. We are not surprised when these new truths are attacked by those who fear the advance of science or who, for an array reasons, may hold the scientist and his science in contempt. But we are stunned when those who honor science and its achievements (who may even earn their bread within the realm of science) attack the most verified and confirmed scientific truths. This is a curious aberration that demands an explanation.

The #1 Killer of Man

The short history of microbiology has given science an amazing account of an epic quest for truth that reveals the weakness of truth when it is without a successful champion. This pursuit of truth was aimed at discovering the causal factors that for thousands of years had given lethal vitality to the number-one killer of man. The search for the greatest mystery killer and the deadliest destroyer of human life since the Middle Ages, ended at the beginning of the 20th Century. And when the number-one killer of man was finally identified, no one would believe it.

The men who finally solved this profound mystery made a salient claim: this mysterious killer is a flying insect. The male is harmless, but the female bites into her victim to drink her victim’s blood. At the same time she injects her victim with “venom,” inducing a fever so agonizing that the victim craves only death. At the turn of the century, this explanation of causality sounded so bizarre that no one took it seriously. Indeed, if you replace the flying insect with a flying bat, it echoes Bram Stoker’s gory tale of the blood sucking vampire in his 1897 mystery novel, Dracula.

Aedes aegypti

Aedes aegypti
(the yellow-fever mosquito)

Today these flying insects are taken seriously. They are identified in biology as Aedes aegypti (the yellow-fever mosquito) and her lethal cousin Anopheles (the malaria mosquito) As recently as the 1940s and 1950s, the Anopheles mosquito, by injecting her victims with malaria, caused the deaths of some three million people each year for 20 years. This adds up to a staggering sixty million deaths from malaria during just two decades (Nielsen 1979, pp. 428, 436). This grave statistic does not even include the millions of deaths caused by mosquito transmitted yellow fever.

“That Can’t be the Cause”

As essential as it is to scientific progress to apply scientific methods to identify causality, finding the correct identification alone is not enough to convince others that a new and superior explanation of causality has been found. Even when we have turned to science to understand the causes of those effects we most like and dislike, the struggle to understand causality and, thereby, optimize scientific progress has come in two steps. Each step involves solving an entirely different problem.

OPTIMIZING SCIENTIFIC PROGRESS (STEP ONE):

The true cause of any physical, biological, or social effect that we like or dislike must be correctly (scientifically) identified.

Where the aim is to optimize scientific progress, the importance of step one cannot be overstated. Grasping the correct understanding of causality is crucial, and yet, it is commonly overlooked, disregarded, or simply not taken into consideration in the first place. But even when step onehas been taken and the scientific evidence is overwhelming that the cause of a certain effect has been correctly identified, that is only part of the solution. In general, this new knowledge cannot be applied for the benefit of society untilstep twohas been taken:

OPTIMIZING SCIENTIFIC PROGRESS (STEP TWO):

Once the true cause of any effect that we like or dislike has been correctly identified, the identifier must convince others of its correctness when nearly everyone believes something else is the cause (usually the conventional explanation).

This second step toward the optimization of scientific progress is always a formidable problem to solve. It is often a step that must be taken along a path that is strewn with more hazards and pitfalls than the first step. Whenever the methods of science are applied to discover a new explanation of the causes of a certain effect, this implies there is now some old explanation of the causes of that effect. Those who have believed in the correctness of this older explanation of causality will not be quick to give up their belief. It is not merely some of them or many of them who will cling to the older explanation of causality — it is almost all of them, especially if they perceive themselves to be educated, intelligent, or successful. The central question to be answered here is why are people (especially, if they are educated, intelligent, and successful) inclined to cling to old and unsupported ideas of causality, when they could embrace new and supported ideas of causality? The answer is important. In this regard, here are three questions for the reader to consider:

  1. How would you rate your ability to accept any new minor idea that has a preponderance of scientific evidence to support it?
    (1) below average, (2) average, (3) above average.
  2. How would you rate your ability to accept any new major idea that has a preponderance of scientific evidence to support it?
    (1) below average, (2) average, (3) above average.
  3. How would you rate your ability to accept any new revolutionary idea that has a preponderance of scientific evidence to support it?
    (1) below average, (2) average, (3) above average.

Throughout four centuries of modern science, when scientific investigators have put forth new explanations of causality — especially if they were revolutionary explanations of causality — the most common response has been: “That can’t be the cause!” This is not to say that every new explanation of causality has been, ipso facto, a better explanation of causality than the old explanation. Novelty is not the guarantor of a better idea. But more often than not, the new correct explanations of causality have been opposed with greater passion and vitriol than have been the new incorrect explanations of causality.

Carlos Finlay

Carlos Finlay

This can be explained, in part, by examining the source of almost everyone’s fundamental beliefs on the causes of physical, biological, and social effects. What is the origin of the basic presuppositions, assumptions, and premises on causality (cause and effect) held by those people who perceive themselves to be educated, intelligent, or successful? When most people, upon hearing of a new scientific explanation of causality, have declared, “That can’t be the cause,” how did they arrive at this assertion? If all of the inputs that led to their respective assertions could be traced back to their sources, most commonly they would include: The book said, “That can’t be the cause.” My professor professed, “That can’t be the cause.” The authorities ruled, “That can’t be the cause.” Everyone says, “That can’t be the cause.” The experts agree, “That can’t be the cause.” Common sense tells me, “That can’t be the cause.” My intuition tells me, “That can’t be the cause.” I have a strong feeling, “That can’t be the cause.” Or some combination of these.

When new scientific explanations of causality have been observationally confirmed and verified, most people who have rejected these new explanations of causality have done so for no other reason than they differed with the old explanations. In general, people accept either what the old authorities claim are the correct explanations of causality or what their intuition tells them are the correct explanations. This common approach to understanding causality causes much misunderstanding. When the individual’s only means of identifying causality is based upon either authority or intuition, then a common effect is the acceptance of many misidentifications of causality. All misidentifications of causality present distortions of reality that lead to miseducation.

The misidentification of causality can be catastrophic. The incredible difficulty of tracking down the greatest mystery killer of all time — the mosquito — illustrates the awesome magnitude of such catastrophes.

Mosquitoes Attack Rome

Some historians claim the scourge of malaria was one of the factors leading to the collapse of the Roman Empire (Walker, 1955, p. 261). From the northern coast of Africa to the British Isles, malaria exacted its deadly toll across the expanse of the Empire. The Romans believed malaria was caused by the foul, gaseous, air that hovered around marshes, especially during warm weather. Our English word malaria is a contraction of the Italian mala aria meaning “bad air.” After the fall of pagan Rome, Christian Rome was no more secure from attack by malarian epidemics. During a conference of cardinals held at the Vatican Palace in 1623, eight cardinals and 30 secretaries were among many who were struck down and died of malaria (Walker, p. 262).

Malaria and yellow fever mosquitoes are tireless in their search for the blood of mammals and humans. Only the females suck blood, and the yellow fever mosquito has a special thirst for human blood to nourish her eggs. In their relentless search for human prey, the ever resourceful mosquitoes have flown aboard sailing ships to reach new lands and new victims. By this means, epidemics have quickly spread from port to port. (Until they arrived by ship in 1827, for example, there were no mosquitoes in the Hawaiian Islands.) The city of Philadelphia was hit with a yellow fever epidemic in 1793 that was reminiscent of a medieval plague. By the time the winter chill had throttled the epidemic, 4,044 Philadelphians were dead from yellow fever — one-tenth of the city’s population. Between 1793 and 1900, there were over a half million deaths from yellow fever recorded in the United States (Clark, 1961, p. 46). The effects of these epidemics were devastating, but what caused them? An army of experts were convinced they knew.

In the 19th century, medical experts believed yellow fever spread through the air from its source in sewage and the putrefaction of dead animals. In a similar way, experts believed that malaria spread through the air from poisonous marsh gas. By the beginning of the 20th century, this explanation of causality (for malaria) had been popular for several thousand years — since the time of the Romans and even earlier.

After thousands of years of misidentifying causality, an important step toward understanding this cause and effect relationship was taken by an American physician Josiah Clark Nott (1804–1873) who had a general practice in Mobile, Alabama. In 1848, Dr. Nott published a paper in the New Orleans Medical and Surgical Journal in which he named various insects including mosquitoes as the probable carrier of both malaria and yellow fever. A major point of his argument was there were no known physical laws of gases that could account for the prevailing explanation for the spread of these diseases: by means of the transmission of poisonous vapors (“miasma”) rising from swamps (McCullough, 1977, p. 142). Nott reasoned, “…the morbific cause of Yellow Fever is not amenable to any of the laws of gases, vapors, emanations, etc., but has an inherent power to propagation, independent of the motions of the atmosphere, and which accords in many respects with the peculiar habits and instincts of Insects” (Chernin, 1983, p. 792). Nott’s biographer explains: “The main purpose of Nott’s article was to argue that the prevailing theory regarding malaria — that it arose from an emanation produced from the earth’s surface by decaying matter — was wholly inadequate to explain the propagation of yellow fever” (Horsman, 1987, l44). Today we know Nott was correct, but his novel explanation of the transmission of yellow fever and malaria was such a revolutionary departure from the old and accepted explanation that the important physicians of the time considered his explanation absurd (Walker, p. 269).

Nott’s conclusions were based upon years of scientific observation, but he did not offer controlled experimental evidence to prove that malaria and yellow fever are carried by infected mosquitoes. Nott presented his 1848 article on disease transmission a decade before Pasteur disclosed his germ theory. Nott’s novel conclusions might have been more influential if Pasteur’s germ theory had already gained acceptance. But revolutionary ideas are forever greeted as foreign ideas. When Pasteur introduced his revolutionary theories of disease transmission, they were backed by the full weight of experimental confirmation. Nevertheless, Pasteur’s irrefutable conclusions were callously ridiculed by physicians and scientists of his time. (Keim and Lumet, 1914, p. 114).

After Josiah Nott’s 1848 publication, thirty-three years marched by while the mosquitoes continued killing more victims. Then, in 1881, another important discovery was announced. A physician and epidemiologist, Dr. Carlos J. Finlay (1833–1915), had been conducting experiments in Havana, Cuba, aimed at identifying the cause of yellow fever. Every year since the founding of Havana more than three centuries earlier, the city had been hit with an epidemic of yellow fever.

Finlay reached the conclusion that the transmission of the deadly yellow fever is caused by the bite of a mosquito. Significantly, he held that it was not the bite of just any mosquito. This was an important breakthrough. There are some 3,000 different species and subspecies of mosquitoes (800 species were known in Finlay’s time), but only one of the 3,000 can transmit yellow fever from old victim to new victim. Dr. Finlay identified the specific killer mosquito as the female of the species Aedes aegypti. (It was not learned until many years later that “jungle yellow fever” is carried by certain other mosquito species.)

Finlay accomplished step one toward scientific progress. He correctly (scientifically) identified the true cause of the effect. The effect he identified the cause of is the vector or means of transmission of yellow fever. A superlative beginning, but if Finlay remained the only one who knew the true cause of the transmission of yellow fever, then the epidemics would continue to devastate the populace.

Step one, understanding causality, is an essential element of progress, but alone it’s power to advance progress is like that of an engine without fuel. The power is only potential; and potential power moves nothing. The missing element was step two: the identifier of causality must convince others of its correctness when nearly everyone believes something else is the cause.

Dr. Finlay would have to tell someone else of his discovery. His problem was how to convince the medical and health professionals that the mosquito transmitted yellow fever from old victim to new victim when everyone believed something else transmitted yellow fever. With this important goal in mind, Carlos Finlay journeyed to Washington, D.C. to attend the 1881 meeting of the International Sanitary Conference to disclose his findings. What presuppositions and premises did the physicians and health professionals at this conference hold on the transmission of disease?

The Germ Theory Delay

A decade earlier during the Franco-Prussian war, (1870–1871), the French chemist, Louis Pasteur, used his influence to encourage military surgeons to boil their scalpels and instruments and steam their bandages to kill germs as a practical means of preventing the spread of disease. The surgeons were skeptical. Germs can’t be the cause of disease, they said. Of the 13,173 amputations of arms, legs, fingers, and toes performed by the French Army during the war, 10,006 — more than three quarters — of these proved fatal to the amputees (Nuland, 1988, p. 373). Those few physicians, however, who did follow Pasteur’s advice obtained remarkable results that saved many lives. Gradually, over decades, the physicians (especially the younger ones) accepted Pasteur’s germ theory. One of Pasteur’s biographers relates: “When he [Pasteur] despaired at convincing his colleagues at the Academy [of Medicine], he would address, over their heads, the young physicians and students who attended the meetings” (Dubos, p. 74).

A central conclusion of the germ theory is that disease is a “contagion” (from the Latin contagionem meaning “a touching”) transmitted, directly or indirectly, by “touching” the diseased victim. The great Scottish surgeon, Joseph Lister (182–1912), after reading in 1865 Pasteur’s Memoire sur las fermentation apelee lactique (“Memorandum upon so called lactic fermentation,” 1857) got the idea of eliminating germs during surgery by applying carbolic acid to surgical instruments, dressings, and the surgeon’s hands. Between 1867 and 1869, Lister applied his new antiseptic techniques during 40 amputations. The results were startling: 34 of these amputees survived. Before Lister’s use of antiseptic surgery, most of his amputees died of postoperative infection. A high death rate had been the unhappy experience of other surgeons after performing amputations (Wood, 1948, p. 130). Lister’s development of antiseptic surgery was itself a revolution. In his February 13, 1874 letter to Pasteur, Lister showed his deep gratitude to his French colleague: “It would afford me the highest gratification to show you how greatly surgery is indebted to you.” In the same year, Pasteur was still trying to convince the surgeons at the French Academy of Medicine to sterilize their instruments with flame before using them in surgery (Vallery-Radot, 1920, pp. 238–240). Gradually the germ theory gained new adherents as it was embraced by younger students while its older detractors died out.

Louis Pasteur

Louis Pasteur

At the 1881 sanitary conference, Dr. Carlos J. Finlay read a scientific paper to the learned men of medicine and biology. His paper was entitled: “The Mosquito Hypothetically Considered as the Agent of the Transmission of Yellow Fever.” Because Finlay was speaking before the International Sanitary Conference, he was confronted with an immediate problem. To these conference members, sanitary meant the absence of all agents of infectious disease. The conference members had come to believe (or had been schooled to believe) that yellow fever is an infectious disease that is transmitted by one thing: POOR SANITATION!

Finlay explained that yellow fever is not a contagious or infectious disease. It is not transmitted by poor sanitation. It is not even transmitted by direct contact with the victim. Yellow fever, he said, is transmitted by the bite of a female Aedes aegypti (at this time named Stegomyia fasciata) mosquito. Finlay emphasized that you can be living in a completely sanitary environment, but if you are bitten by a mosquito infected with yellow fever, you will contract the disease (if you are not immune from an earlier attack). The learned gentlemen attending the sanitary conference agreed: The mosquito can’t be the carrier of yellow fever.

In 1881, this was a revolutionary idea on the cause of disease transmission. A revolutionary idea (both then and now) is an idea that is a great turnaround from an established idea. The history of scientific revolutions reveals that the greater the intellectual revolution, the greater the opposition to that revolution. Dr. Finlay was successful by 1881 with step one: He achieved a correct identification of causality. But at step two, when he tried to convince others, his explanation of causality was rejected. How serious was this rejection? For those who lived where yellow fever epidemics were routine, it was very serious. These medical experts rejected as absurd the scientifically precise identification of the true cause (vector) of the number-one killer of man. These experts were prevented by their ideological immune systems from accepting Finlay’s revolutionary explanation of causality just as the experts of a generation earlier were prevented from accepting Pasteur’s revolutionary explanations of causality.

The Mosquito Men

Meanwhile seventeen more years elapsed while the ubiquitous mosquitoes continued to torment more victims with lethal injections of yellow fever. In 1898, the American politicians pushed the American citizens into a war with Spain. The United States Army was ordered to invade the Spanish-held island of Cuba. During the invasion most of the Americans “killed in action” were not killed by Spanish bullets; they were killed by Cuban-based mosquitoes. Even the generals behind the lines were not safe. During the Cuban campaign, one third of the U.S. Army’s general staff died of yellow fever.

The loss of so many high ranking officers caught the attention of the generals in Washington. In 1900, the U.S. Army sent a commission to Havana to solve the yellow fever problem. Heading the Yellow Fever Commission was an army surgeon and bacteriologist, Major Walter Reed. His orders from the Surgeon General, George Sternberg, were: “Wipe it out, Major, before it destroys all of the American occupation force in Cuba, wipe it out if you can” (Dolan, 1962, p. 8).

Reed began the search for a solution with this fundamental question: What is the cause of this effect (yellow fever) that we dislike? In Havana, there was a European-trained physician who claimed he already had an answer to this question. Dr. Carlos Finlay explained to Dr. Walter Reed how the mosquito carries yellow fever from old victim to new victim. Finlay even gave Reed some tiny black eggs of Aedes aegypti and exclaimed to Major Reed, “these are the eggs of the criminal.” Reed’s response, in so many words, was the mosquito can’t be the cause.

The accepted medical wisdom of the time was that yellow fever is a contagious disease transmitted by direct contact with the victim or his clothing, bedding, or eating utensils. During epidemics, health authorities imposed rigid quarantines. Mail and freight were disinfected before delivery. Frightened people flung the clothing and bedding of victims into the streets where they were quickly consumed by great bonfires. Sometimes even the victims’ houses were incinerated in a futile effort to destroy what was thought to be the contagious agents (Nielsen, 1979, p. 436).

In 1898, the U.S. Army set up a yellow fever camp at the Cuban town of Siboney. Soon the yellow fever epidemic was spreading so rapidly throughout Siboney that in desperation the medical officer in charge of the camp, Major William Gorgas, ordered the entire village burned to the ground along with the valuable cache of medical supplies (McCullough, p. 413). All these frantic efforts to contain the spread of yellow fever failed because (as would be proven later) yellow fever is not contagious.

Walter Reed began his search for the cause of yellow fever with the presupposition that yellow fever is contagious. Reed and his staff of skilled researchers probed for a microbe that could be the contagious killer. Their microscopes revealed nothing capable of causing yellow fever. Reed made an exhaustive investigation of every possible causal factor he could think of, but the search was futile. He had pursued every avenue of inquiry except one: Test this novel and absurd idea of the Havana physician and epidemiologist, Carlos Finlay, that yellow fever is transmitted from old victim to new victim by the mere bite of a mosquito.

By this time, Reed and his staff had concluded that the carrier of yellow fever could be an insect. If it was an insect, it could be any one of thousands, the pursuit of which might elude them forever. Instead of taking on this immense task, Reed agreed to first test Finlay’s theory that the carrier of yellow fever was not only a specific insect the mosquito, but a specific species of mosquito: Aedes aegypti.

The testing of Finlay’s theory presented a formidable problem. It could not be tested with animals because animals cannot be given yellow fever. (Not until 1927 did researchers discover the rhesus monkey can contract yellow fever from the bite of an infected mosquito, Dolan, 1962, p. 190.) This meant experiments would have to be conducted to deliberately transmit yellow fever to humans by the bite of an infected mosquito. If Finlay had identified the true cause of the transmission of yellow fever, then these would be risky and dangerous experiments. Just how risky and dangerous? The statistical probability of surviving a yellow fever attack was not good. In 1898, two years before Reed’s investigations in Havana, a yellow fever epidemic struck Rio de Janeiro. The death rate of those stricken with yellow fever was 94.5%. Nearly every fever victim perished. In other yellow fever epidemics, a mortality rate of 85% was common. (During the 1878 yellow fever epidemic in Memphis, Tennessee, for example, people died faster than they could be buried. Those who were not too sick, fled the city in panic only to be refused help from their armed neighbors in the countryside. Ignoring the risk, an army of looters descended upon the deserted city. They ransacked businesses and dwellings from one end of Memphis to the other in search of riches that by then were guarded only by the dead and dying. Meanwhile, the promiscuous mosquitoes in search of fresh blood struck the looters as they had the townspeople. Many looters were felled by the fever and many died in agony still clutching their sacks of plunder [Dolan, pp. 28–29] ).

With full knowledge of the mortality rate of yellow fever victims, Reed conducted experiments designed to give his volunteers yellow fever. Fortunately, most of those who contracted yellow fever from the systematic bites of infected mosquitoes survived the ordeal. One who did not survive was a member of Reed’s own Yellow Fever Commission: Dr. Jesse William Lazear (1866–1900). (It is not known whether the lethal bite that killed Lazear was accidental or intentional.) Ironically, Dr. Lazear was the first member of the Yellow Fever Commission to believe in Finlay’s theory of mosquito transmission. His own death confirmed the truth of the theory that he had implored Reed to consider testing.

Walter Reed

Walter Reed

Walter Reed’s carefully controlled and brilliantly conceived experiments proved conclusively that the carrier and transmitter of yellow fever was Aedes aegypti. In so doing, Reed also proved that Dr. Carlos Finlay (disparagingly named “the mosquito man” by his medical peers) was not a self-deluded crackpot after all. With this new understanding of causality, Reed tried to develop a safe vaccine for yellow fever. He tested his new vaccines on more volunteers, but the vaccines were not safe. Reed was not as fortunate with these last volunteers as he had been previously. Three of the seven volunteers who contracted yellow fever from these vaccines died of their fevers. Discouraged by these disastrous experimental failures, Reed gave up the search for a safe vaccine. There was only one apparent defense against yellow fever: kill Aedes aegypti before she launched another epidemic. This was no small task in 1900 before the development of effective chemical pesticides. This seemingly impossible assignment was given to Major William Crawford Gorgas (1854–1920). During the U.S. Army occupation of Cuba, Gorgas was the Chief Sanitary Officer. The difficulties were so formidable, even Reed is said to have told Gorgas, “It can’t be done” (McCullough, p. 415). With suggestions from Reed and Finlay along with ingenious inventions of his own, Gorgas, in just 90 days, led his men on a successful purge of Aedes aegypti throughout the city of Havana. The result was sensational. For the first time in three centuries, there was not one new case of yellow fever recorded in the city of Havana. The scientific evidence was now overwhelming: The mosquito was, without question, the carrier of yellow fever. Gorgas was given much attention for his victory over Aedes aegypti and the consequent defeat of yellow fever in Havana. By special act of Congress, he was promoted to Assistant Surgeon General of the United States.

In 1904, William Gorgas, now a colonel, was sent to Panama to become the Chief Sanitary Officer for the construction of the new American project to build a canal across the Isthmus of Panama. His assignment: Rid the Canal Zone of yellow fever and malaria.

Earlier a French company had spent six frustrating years attempting to build a sea level canal (without locks) across the Isthmus. From the very beginning there were so many deaths among workers and engineers from yellow fever and malaria that this became a major factor forcing the French to abandon their monumental project.

With the knowledge he had gained earlier, Gorgas formulated a plan to protect the canal employees from the deadly mosquitoes. He ordered protective screens to cover the windows of the worker’s living quarters. He requested men and equipment to drain swamps and dry up mosquito breeding grounds. Where swamps could not be drained, Gorgas ordered kerosene to be sprayed on the water’s surface to smother the mosquito larva. (American entomologist, Leland O. Howard, first suggested using this method of mosquito extermination in 1892.) Gorgas sent all these requests for the necessary men and supplies to the Isthmian Canal Commission in charge of building the canal. To his great dismay, something went wrong. The Canal Commissioners responded to Gorgas by ignoring his requests, or by rejecting his requests, or by drastically limiting the quantities of materials sent. In short, the Canal Commissioners refused to cooperate with Gorgas and his plans for mosquito control. The question for us to consider is why.

From the beginning of his assignment, Gorgas told the Commissioners that the men, equipment, and supplies he had requested were necessary to kill off the deadly mosquitoes. The Commissioners believed differently. They were certain Colonel Gorgas was wasting his time and government funds by chasing mosquitoes across the Isthmus when he should be attending to the sick and dying workers. Gorgas explained that the mosquitoes were the cause of the disease and the deaths. The Commissioners answered with confidence: Yellow fever and malaria are caused by men who live and work in filthy, unsanitary, conditions. They were positive the mosquitoes had nothing to do with the growing epidemics of yellow fever and malaria.

Ironically, there was one item requisitioned by Gorgas the canal commissioner filled without complaint: coffins! The commissioner supplied Gorgas with every coffin he ordered. They even sent him extras. He needed them (Dolan and Silver, 1968, p. 142).

Gorgas warned the Commissioners that if they refused to give him the men and supplies necessary to exterminate the mosquitoes, the canal workers would be vulnerable to an irrepressible epidemic. The Commissioners continued to ignore Gorgas and his warnings with devastating results. A raging epidemic of yellow fever and malaria hit the canal workers and engineers. Mosquitoes were killing workers faster than they could be replaced. The frightening number of deaths caused workers to quit in panic. Three quarters of the American workers fled the canal.

Once the Canal Commissioners finally realized the entire canal project was in jeopardy of floundering, they acted quickly. The Commissioners sent urgent appeals to Washington to fire Gorgas. In their communications, they accused Gorgas of being an incompetent health officer, and blamed him for the ruinous spread of yellow fever and malaria.

In Washington, President Theodore Roosevelt was advised by the Secretary of War and other important officials to dismiss Gorgas. Roosevelt hesitated. The canal was his cherished project and he wanted to make the right decision. He wrote for advice to Dr. William H. Welch, Dean of Johns Hopkins Medical School. Welch advised that “no one else is as well qualified to conduct this work as the present incumbent, Dr. Gorgas.” Still hesitant, Roosevelt sought guidance from a close personal friend, Dr. Alexander Lambert, who told him, “Mr. President, upon what you decide depends whether or not you are going to get your canal. If you fall back upon the old methods of sanitation, you will fail, just as the French failed. If you back up Gorgas and his ideas and let him make his campaign against mosquitoes, then you get your canal” (Gorgas and Hendrick, 1924, pp. 198–201).

Roosevelt issued an immediate order to the Canal Commission to give their complete cooperation to Colonel Gorgas in the execution of his duties as Chief Sanitary Officer (Dolan and Silver, 1968, p. 168). Under orders from the President — but still with great reluctance — the Canal Commissioners provided Gorgas with all of the men, equipment, and supplies he had requested in the first place. Gorgas, understanding causality, wasted no time in marshaling his men, equipment, and supplies for the successful purge of malaria and yellow fever mosquitoes throughout the working and living areas of the Canal Zone. No surprise to Gorgas, the fatal epidemics ended and the Canal Commissioners built their grand monument to science and engineering: the Panama Canal.

Lessons From History

There are important lessons to be learned from the sequence of problems that had to be solved that led ultimately to the identification of the true causes of yellow fever and malaria, and the effective utilization of this new knowledge. Whether the realm of knowledge concerns physical action, biological action, or human action, when the goal is to optimize some major positive goal or to optimize the solution, then five sequential problems must be solved.

The first problem was identified two thousand years ago by the Roman poet Ovid, when he proclaimed: “The cause is hidden, but the effect is known.” Our fellow humans show exceptional ability when they are asked to identify all of the myriad physical, biological, and social effects they either like or dislike. They like good health and dislike disease. They like prosperity and dislike poverty. They like peace and dislike war. They like freedom and dislike slavery. The growing tally of effects that good people like and dislike is endless. As Ovid says, the effects are known. But what about their respective causes? Can they be easily identified?

UNDERSTANDING CAUSALITY, PROBLEM ONE: The true causes of the physical, biological, and social effects people most like and dislike are almost always hidden from view.

The cause of malaria remained hidden from view for thousands of years after that disliked effect was first observed. The cause of yellow fever remained hidden from view for hundreds of years after that even more feared and disliked effect was first noticed in the 15th Century. After Reed’s research proved the mosquito was the carrier of yellow fever, the actual infective agent that enters the blood stream of the victim through the bite of the mosquito was still hidden from view. Reed and his staff made a relentless microscopic search for the specific agent, but they never found it. As it turned out, they never could have observed it. Their optical microscopes (the best available at the time) were not powerful enough to see the causal agent. It was not until the development of the electron microscope in the 1930s by Vladimir Zworykin, James Hillier and others that the yellow fever virus was finally observed.

UNDERSTANDING CAUSALITY, PROBLEM TWO: Humans almost always misidentify the causes of the physical, biological, and social effects they most like and dislike.

There are few biological effects in history that have been more disliked than yellow fever and malaria. Before the rise of modern science, the “wrath of God” took the brunt of the blame. The Greek physician Hippocrates (460?–377? B.C.), author of the oath of fidelity (Hippocratic oath) still affirmed by modern physicians, claimed that malaria was caused by the drinking of stagnant water (Walker, p. 262). The French word for malaria, paludisme, means “marsh fever.” The belief that poisonous marsh gases and vapors caused malaria prevailed for thousands of years. Yellow fever, it was believed, was caused by putrefaction, and after the popularization of Pasteur’s germ theory in the second half of the 19th Century, that it was caused by poor sanitation. Others were convinced yellow fever and malaria were visited upon those with loose morals. Those who gambled in casinos, frolicked in brothels, or swilled sauce in saloons were believed to be the most vulnerable due to their moral decay.

UNDERSTANDING CAUSALITY, PROBLEM THREE: Because progress is built upon a correct (scientific) identification of the causes of physical, biological, and social effects, the problem is how to attain a correct identification of the causes of these effects.

Walter Reed employed the methods of science to identify and prove that the Aedes aegypti mosquito is the causal factor in the transmission of yellow fever. Two years earlier the British physician, Ronald Ross (1857–1932), employed the same methods of science to identify and prove that the Anopheles mosquito was the causal factor in the transmission of malaria. The grand solution to problem three is to apply a scientific approach to the identification of causality.

Significant progress toward the protection of men, women, and children from the effects of yellow fever and malaria could not (and did not) take place until the cause of the transmission of these diseases was correctly identified.

UNDERSTANDING CAUSALITY, PROBLEM FOUR: There must be someone with the resolve to continue pursuing the correct identification of the causes of the physical, biological, and social effects they like or dislike until the correct identification is attained.

Walter Reed possessed the will to continue in pursuit of a difficult goal (the identification of the yellow fever vector) and to overcome much failure and great discouragement until success was achieved. Before Reed, Dr. Finlay had the same resolve. Finlay failed to prove the correctness of his own mosquito theory, in part, because he was experimenting with animals all of which were immune to yellow fever. When Finlay experimented with mosquitoes biting yellow fever victims and then healthy persons, he was unable to confirm the transmission of the disease experimentally. Reed also experimented with humans. After many initial failures, he was finally successful in getting mosquitoes to transmit yellow fever from old victim to new victim, proving the correctness of Finlay’s theory. Reed, with important inputs from Dr. Henry Rose Carter, had determined the time pattern of infection that Finlay had missed (Gibson, 1950, pp. 65–68). A mosquito only becomes infected when it bites a fever victim between the third and the sixth days of infection, and only becomes dangerous after it has been infected for an “extrinsic incubation” period of at least 12 days before it bites a new victim (Clark, p. 61).

Carlos Finlay presented his theory of mosquito transmission to an international audience at Washington, D.C., in 1881, and to the Royal Academy of Havana in the same year. His theory was opposed and ridiculed by his medical peers (Clark, p. 53). It is important to note, however, that Finlay did not give up his experimental attempts to prove his theory during the next 19 years. In the end, his relentless determination enabled him to finally get the attention of Walter Reed who, like everyone else in medicine at the time (1900) who had heard of Finlay’s mosquito idea (including William Gorgas), thought the whole idea absurd.

UNDERSTANDING CAUSALITY, PROBLEM FIVE: There must be someone with the will to promulgate the new identification of causality until there is general acceptance of it by those who perceive themselves to be educated, intelligent, or successful.

William Gorgas proved the correctness of the mosquito transmission theory in a dramatic way with his successful campaign to eliminate yellow fever in Havana. He continued to promulgate this new explanation of causality with his important work in Panama. Because he refused to give up in the face of great opposition, his ultimate success made it possible for a growing number of educated, intelligent, and successful people to accept the revolutionary ideas of Finlay and Reed on the transmission of yellow fever by the mosquito.

The general acceptance of a new basic idea on causality may take decades, centuries, or millenniums. Nearly 1,500 years ago a physician from India wrote a paper on malaria and its cause. He identified the carrier of malaria to be a tiny flying insect — the mosquito. The physician was Susruta, who flourished in the 5th Century (Walker, p. 261). At the time his idea of causality did not make a sufficient impact and was soon forgotten.

More than 13 centuries later the American physician, Josiah Nott, published several papers in the New Orleans Medical and Surgical Journal. He claimed that malaria and yellow fever are two different diseases and that they are not transmitted by poisonous marsh vapors but by insects and possibly mosquitoes. The learned men of medicine who read the paper agreed: That can’t be the cause of transmission. Thirty-three years later the Cuban physician, Carlos Finlay, who never heard of Susruta or Nott, published a paper naming a specific mosquito species as the carrier of yellow fever. Finlay was ridiculed by the professionals in medicine for the absurdity of his idea.

After the experimental achievements of Reed and his staff, the scientific evidence corroborating Finlay’s mosquito theory was indisputable. In spite of the overwhelming evidence, the experts, along with those they influenced, rejected the correct explanation of the cause of the number-one killer of man. Meanwhile millions of mosquitoes continued to inject millions of victims with their deadly venom of malaria and yellow fever. Many deaths from yellow fever and malaria could have been avoided, but the experts, the authorities, the educated, all agreed: The mosquito can’t be the cause of these frightful epidemics. Their rejection of demonstrable truth remains one of the great catastrophes in the history of human action. Their actions give rise to this paramount question: Why do most people refuse to accept new revolutionary explanations of causality, especially when these explanations are supported by a preponderance of scientific evidence?

The Canal Commissioners were immune to acceptance of the revolutionary and foreign theory of disease communication developed by Carlos Finlay and Walter Reed and confirmed by Reed, Gorgas, and others. Like the commissioners, each of us has an ideological immune system:

Our ideological immune system resists acceptance of any new ideas that would overturn any of our old basic ideas.

In other words, our ideological immune system repels any new ideas that do not agree with our previously accepted premises, presuppositions, and preconceptions (old ideas). When someone offers a new explanation of causality, usually our first reaction is to think: That can’t be the cause. Why? Because we were taught earlier that something else is the cause.

None of us like to give up our basic premises. If the truth of one of our fundamental premises is challenged, we tend to think and act as though we are under personal attack. When this happens, the goal is seldom to find truth. The goal is to defend our premises. When the primary goal becomes defense of our premises, whether they are true or false is not even a factor of consideration. Our goal becomes defense for the sake of defense.

The Isthmian Canal Commissioners refused to cooperate with Colonel Gorgas and his request for the men, equipment, and supplies necessary to protect the workers from the deadly mosquitoes. As a result, the mosquitoes caused a raging epidemic of yellow fever and malaria. The Commissioners responded to this catastrophe by blaming Gorgas for the epidemics. Their failure to understand causality was complete.

What went wrong? Were the engineers who sat on the Canal Commission dull, stupid, men? It is compelling to conclude they were merely dense blockheads, but that conclusion alone prevents us from learning the causes of their blunder. Stupid men lack intelligence and reason. Stupid they were not. Nonetheless, in spite of their intelligence and their reasoning ability, they got stuck defending false premises and false doctrines.

Scientific Skepticism

It is important to note the chronology of events before the appointment of Gorgas to the post of Chief Sanitary Officer for the Panama Canal project. On February 6, 1901, Dr. Walter Reed presented the results of the Yellow Fever Commission to the Pan American Medical Congress in Havana. The proof was incontrovertible: the mosquito transmits yellow fever and, therefore, yellow fever is not a contagious disease. In the same year William Gorgas was successful in purging the yellow fever mosquitoes from Havana. The result was spectacular: There was not one case of yellow fever in Havana in 1902. This brought to an end the annual yellow fever epidemics for the first time since the city’s founding over three centuries earlier. In the same year (1902), Ronald Ross was awarded the prestigious Nobel Prize in medicine for his brilliant detective work that led to his identification in 1898 of the Anopheles mosquito as the carrier of malaria. Gorgas was then honored by Congress for his eradication of yellow fever in Havana with his appointment to Assistant Surgeon General. Then in 1904, he was appointed Chief Sanitary Officer, Isthmian Canal Commission. In spite of his great prestige by 1904, and the overwhelming evidence verifying the mosquito theory of transmission, Gorgas could not convince the Canal Commissioners that the mosquito is the cause of the transmission of yellow fever and malaria. The Commissioners clung to their belief that yellow fever and malaria are caused by human exposure to filthy conditions of sanitation. They all agreed: The mosquito can’t be the cause. The President of the Canal Commission, John G. Walker, arrogantly dismissed the entire theory of mosquito caused disease in a word - “balderdash!” (McCullough, p. 422). Canal Commissioner and Governor of the Canal Zone, George W. Davis, was no more receptive when he chided Gorgas: “I’m your friend, Gorgas, and I’m trying to set you right. On the mosquito you are simply wild. All who agree with you are wild. Get the idea out of your head. Yellow fever, as we all know, is caused by filth” (Sullivan, 1927, p. 460).

The Canal Commissioners were overwhelmed by their ideological immune systems. These systems protected them from their acceptance of a revolutionary explanation of causality. And while the Commissioners were blocking the success of Gorgas in destroying mosquitoes, at the same time they were blocking their own success at building the canal. For them, their ideological immune systems become a cause of self-defeat. If the Commissioners had not been ordered by President Roosevelt to cooperate with Gorgas, the mosquitoes might have defeated the Americans in Panama as they did the French a decade and a half earlier.

Planck’s Maxim

In Germany during 1900, the same year Reed was sent to Havana, Max Planck (1858–1947) was introducing a revolution in physics known today as the quantum theory. His new theory explored this question: In the realm of physical action, how can we understand the causes of microcosmic effects in the very small world of subatomic particles? After 36 years of attempting to explain the quantum theory to his peers and fellow scientists, in his Philosophy of Physics, Planck reached a conclusion that deserves “maxim” status. (p. 97):

An important scientific innovation rarely makes its way by gradually winning over and converting its opponents: it rarely happens that Saul becomes Paul. What does happen is that its opponents gradually die out and that the growing generation is familiarized with the idea from the beginning.

Fortunately for Max Planck, he lived 47 years after his 1900 disclosure of quantum physics. During this time he saw the majority of the opponents to his quantum theory “gradually die out.” Their ideological immune systems guarded them throughout their adult lives from Planck’s revolutionary ideas. But before his death at the age of 89, Planck had the satisfaction of witnessing several generations of young physicists embrace his quantum theory. The history of human action confirms Planck’s conclusion, restated as Planck’s Maxim:Educated, intelligent, successful adults rarely change their most fundamental premises.

The causes of this human phenomenon are manifold, but here are three principal causes for the reader to consider. The first involves a principle of human action:

(1) PRINCIPLE OF INTELLECTUAL INDOLENCE: It always takes more time and effort to embrace a new idea and less time and effort to cling to an old idea.

Our English noun “indolence” is derived from the Latin indolentia meaning “freedom from pain.” The indolent person prefers freedom from physical exertion, effort, unpleasantness, or pain. He also avoids mental exertion because that, too, is painful. By the time an individual is an adult, most (if not all) of his fundamental premises have had an authoritarian origin. The intellectual authorities in his life are the familiar teachers, professors, theologians, textbook writers, historians, journalists, physicists, biologists, et al. Once his fundamental premises have been accumulated through indoctrination during his formative years, he does not like to give them up. To do so, he must overcome the tendency to be intellectually indolent. This is always “painful.”

Medical historian and physician, Sherwin B. Nuland, has described the indifference and the hostility among established surgeons to Lister’s revolutionary development of antiseptic surgery: “Books have been written about why it was that the entire surgical world did not immediately embrace Lister’s teachings. One of the reasons is obvious: it was a great deal easier not to believe in them” (1988, p. 369).

Pasteur had little success converting his fellow members at the French Academy of Medicine to accept his germ theory. When success finally came, it was achieved with the young medical students who did not have to be convinced to give up their old ideas of disease transmission in favor of Pasteur’s new ideas. As the new generation of medical students accepted Pasteur’s germ theory, the older generation of physicians who had rejected Pasteur’s revolutionary ideas gradually died out. By the time these young students themselves matured into senior physicians, most of them would come to reject the new theory of mosquito transmission of disease. There were few conversions: these educated intelligent, successful adults did not change their most fundamental ideas on causality. To avoid intellectual exertion is natural, thus, the adult tends to cling to old basic ideas rather than give them up for new basic ideas. No exertion is required to maintain the ideological status quo. The principle of intellectual indolence is the foundation of the ideological immune system.

(2) FEAR OF REPUTATIONAL LOSS: When an individual�s reputation is built upon a foundation of certain basic premises, if the truth of these premises is challenged, his reputation is also challenged.

To defend his good reputation (a precious asset in most societies) the individual will defend his premises. To fail in the defense of his basic premises — as the defender usually sees it — is to lose his reputation. A loss of reputation means a loss of prestige and standing in those communities he deems important. Many people value their reputational status over their economic status.

Nuland gives another reason for the antagonism among surgeons to Lister’s great advances in surgical technology: “Imagine what it must have felt like for a surgeon to accept a theory that confronts him with the intolerable fact that for the previous fifteen years of his career he has been killing his patients by allowing into their wounds microbes which he should have been destroying” (p. 370).

(3) FEAR OF ECONOMIC LOSS: If the truth of an individual�s basic premises is inextricably tied to his economic well being, he will feel compelled to defend his premises as a means of defending his income.

If a scientist’s funding is based upon a hypothesis that cannot be confirmed — where a growing amount of observational data contradicts his hypothesis — he may be highly motivated to defend his hypothesis as the most expedient means of defending his funding. In such cases the quest for scientific funding may very well take priority over the quest for scientific truth.

Ideological Immunity

The magnitude and direction — the vector — of scientific progress is determined by the accumulation of better explanations of the fundamental causes of physical, biological, and social effects. Across the span of four centuries we have applied scientific methods to strengthen our understanding of causality. In so doing we have been steadily evolving Western society from a static society to a dynamic society. The prime feature of a dynamic society is the rapid acceleration of better explanations of causality. These advances in understanding produce rapid change across the entire fabric of social institutions. In a dynamic society those who maintain their immunity to new ideas — merely because they are new or revolutionary ideas — will pay a heavy price for their intractable rigidity. Those who are unable or unwilling to adapt to rapid changes will be left behind by the march of progress.

On the other hand, every student of the history of ideas knows that a new idea is not necessarily a better idea. To replace a superior old idea with an inferior new idea is never a good idea and is always intellectually and culturally regressive. The individual who prizes his intellectual integrity may want to strengthen his immunity to new bad ideas and weaken or suppress his immunity to new good ideas. This presumes, however, that a scientific standard of good idea versus bad idea can be found. How might the scientific skeptic in a dynamic society avoid being overwhelmed by his ideological immune system as were the Panama Canal Commissioners?

Defense from the indiscriminate protection of our own ideological immune system begins with the recognition that everyone has an ideological immune system that protects him or her from new ideas: new good ideas and new bad ideas. For the scientific skeptic who would avoid being overwhelmed by his ideological immune system, there is a scientific guideline to follow:

THE PRINCIPLE OF SCIENTIFIC SKEPTICISM: The less scientific verification for an explanation of causality, the more skeptical one can afford to be; and the more scientific verification the less skeptical one can afford to be.

If a new explanation of causality has been independently verified, confirmed, and corroborated with a growing amount of indisputable evidence to support it, you may want to give serious consideration to suppressing your immunity to its acceptance as a better explanation of causality.

In a dynamic society there will be a growing array of scientific disciplines generating new explanations of causality. No one will have the time or knowledge to test every new explanation of causality to determine if it is better than the old explanation. But the dynamic skeptic can make an effort to determine if those who have proposed and tested a new explanation of causality have applied the testing methodology known as the scientific method. The dynamic skeptic governs his ideological immune system. The static skeptic is governed by his ideological immune system. The choice is ours: to govern or be governed.

Bibliography
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  • Dolan, Jr. E. F. 1962. Vanquishing Yellow Fever: Walter Reed. Chicago: Encyclopedia Britannica Press.
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  • McCullough, D. G. 1977. The Path Between the Seas: The Creation of the Panama Canal. New York: Simon & Schuster, Inc.
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  • Nuland, S. B. 1988. Doctors: The Biography of Medicine. New York: Knopf.
  • Planck, M. 1936. Philosophy of Physics. New York: W. W.Norton. Translated by W. H. Johnston.
  • Sullivan, M. 1927. Our Times, The United States, 1900–1975, The Turn of the Century.New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons.
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  • Wood, L. N. 1948. Louis Pasteur. New York: Julian Messner lnc.

Saturday, January 15, 2011

Homeward bound

I had not been looking forward to the long trip back to home but it went by relatively uneventfully and we arrived home a bit tired but otherwise none the worse for wear.

The morning started in a pedestrian enough fashion and we all woke up quite late, I am going to miss these 07:30 starts to the day, and finished packing, had breakfast from the remains of the food and were out of the apartment at 10:00.

We dumped all the bags in the waiting lounge before heading down but because there were signs absolutely all over the place to not leave ones' luggage unattended, Caron happily agreed to remain behind. Ostensibly it was to read but I think it was as much a matter of fortifying herself for the travel ahead.

The rest of us went down to the town for some last minute shopping and to bid farewell to what had become familiar places to us, the medical centre in particular!

The taxi arrived on time at 12:00 and we had a very easy trip down to Moutiers, Kirsten just couldn't stop remarking on how much better this was than having to take two buses. She tried to stop but, in the end, just couldn't quite crack it.

There was a slight delay in the departure of the TGV and one of the carriages was missing, not ours thankfully, which I managed to understand from the announcements. Maybe my French lessons were not all quite in vain. The TGV proved to be a wonderful trip, we spent most of our time on the upper level in the dining area watching the countryside rush past; it really is a spectacularly beautiful country.

We arrived in Gare de Lyon and took two trains out to the airport where we spent quite a bit of time waiting for the aircraft which only took off at around midnight. Negotiating the trains was a bit of a hit and miss affair and my clearly not knowing where exactly we should go next didn't stop Caron continually asking where we should be going which didn't enhance my mood at all. While we were waiting Carl and I spied a duty-free shop where we replenished our supplies of Aberlour and Balvenie Double-Wood since they had been devastated by Kim. The two of us has nothing at all to do with the consumption of whisky of course.

As soon as we boarded I took a melatonin pill (mild sleeping pill) and then hung on desperately trying to stay awake until supper arrived. With supper out of the way, the next thing I knew it was 08:30 and two hours later we were on the ground. An unexpected minus to travelling on the A380 is that everything just takes ages, loading the aircraft, disembarking, waiting for luggage - it all takes just that much longer just because of the sheer number of people.

Baggage collected we headed out to the Gautrain which we missed by a couple of minutes because Caron had to feed her nicotine addiction so we had to wait 25 minutes for the next one. Kirsten and Carl had my parents meet them at the airport but all of us couldn't fit into the cars so we took the sensible option and used the public transport. This worked quite well until I tried to get out of the station at Sandton and there wasn't enough money on my gautrain card which was really annoying. I later realised that there wasn't a system malfunction, there really wasn't enough money there since I had used the buses a couple of times and it just took the balance available to me under what I needed.

That sorted out, I walked to my offices in the pouring rain using the umbrella I had carried to europe and back but never used until this point.

That is pretty much it! Landing back in South Africa, the first thing that struck me was that we really have become the land of the fatties but, it's still home!

Friday, January 14, 2011

Ag nee, the last day skiing

Glorious sunshine greeted us for a change, still very cold but it was much nicer to be in the sunshine than the mist. We had decided to head up to Val Thorens to do some of the runs which I had really enjoyed previously.

Today has got to be the best skiing I think I have ever had, conditions were just perfect. Blue skies overhead, nice and cold but no so much that you are freezing, great pistes and perfect snow to ski on. Still scrunchy below one's feet. I can't think how the conditions could get any better.

We took the following route in the morning
  • Up mont de la chambre lift and then down the mont de la chambre into Val Thorens
  • Up the peclet lift and then down tete ronde
  • Up moraine lift and down moraine
  • Up moraine lift and then up the col lift, down the red col run and then down genepi.
  • Up the portette lift and then down fond, plateau, altiport and lagopede and gentiane
  • Up boismint lift and then down blanchot, tetras and bd cummin back to Les Menuires
The view from the col was awesome and we could look out over the glacier de chaviere and watch some people climbing up it. I'm not sure what they were actually doing because they had both climbing equipment and ski's; they looked like ants on the glacier.
The red run was very steep at the top but the snow was reasonable so it wasn't too much of a problem. After we negotiated the red we took a break at the restaurant half way down genepi with some pretty fair chocolat chaud and crepe nutella. The view from this restaurant out over Val Thorens is just awesome, definitely aided by the fact that we could actually see Val Thorens today.
Skiing down tetras gave a whole new meaning to ice, the entire run is north facing and is low enough to have been rained on. I think there was a conspiracy and we didn't get the memo because we were the only people on the run and not once on the whole run was there anything even vaguely powdery, even piles that looked nice and soft were just frozen solid. My knees by the time we finished were quite sore, the run was challenging after two weeks of skiing and if we had done this run when we had just arrived I think disaster would have ensued.

Had the usual for lunch before heading out for the last time to Grand Lac, pezolet and 3 marches which were all nice but a bit more icy than yesterday. We were on our very last run when Carl was mowed by a moron in a red bobble headed devil suite who was flying straight down the slope. I think he was racing his friends and I caught it on video, he didn't even try and swerve at all. My first thought was whether Carl had hurt his shoulder because he was lying very still in the middle of the piste. My second thought was to catch the perpetrator and rugby tackle him, see how he likes that, but by the time we had gathered our wits he was long gone - unfortunately.

Well, that's it. Skiing is over and we are all more or less intact. Kirsten and Carl were going out for an anniversary dinner so we took Megan and Alistair down to the market for some more nutella crepe's while I took some photographs. The proprietors were very co-operative and I think I my have a keeper of one of the store owners looking very proud of himself. It must be quite a life doing the market and moving the entire thing every day to a different town. It sounds like the move between Val Thorens, Les Menuires, Meribel and Coucheval every day of the week.
Once the kids had retired to bed I retired to the balcony with a big glass of red wine and my last cigar to see the holiday out in the peace and quit of the mountains at night.

Tomorrow is travelling day, ughh!

Thursday, January 13, 2011

The light at the end of the tunnel

After yesterday, everyone needed some cheering up but when the day dawned, it looked absolutely miserable; all misty and worst of all, it looked like it had rained overnight which didn't bode at all well for the days skiing.

We were all wondering what we were going to do because skiing in the mist for the whole day wasn't high on anyone's agenda. Fortunately for us, Carl happened to open the front door and lo and behold, there was blue sky on that side of the house so before it could vanish we kitted up and were out the door. Unfortunately I think the whole of Les Menuires had the same idea and the queues at the lifts were pretty bad. Not as bad as we've had at Avoriaz or on new years eve in Paris but by the standards set during our two weeks here, pretty bad. It turned out that most of the lifts up to high points weren't yet running due to ice so we had to slosh around in the mush left by the rain until we found a reasonably high one (sunny express) from where we skied over to the becca lift from where we could actually start the days skiing.
The rain that we had had in Les Menuires hadn't fallen on the higher pistes so these were absolutely fantastic to ski on but as we dropped down in altitude we would be in and out of the cloud that was lurking in the valley and rising and dissipating sporadically. We tried skiing pelozet but by the time we got to the bottom lift we were in really thick cloud which doesn't make for the most enjoyable skiing. A piste marker would loom out of the mist and one isn't sure which side of the marker one should be and what direction one should be skiing; it's very disorientating.

Once we figured out which runs were okay we had a great time skiing on Grand Lac and 3 Marches which both had really good snow and good sunlight. One can't have too much of a good thing so we stopped for chocolat chaud and nutella waffles at our favourite restaurant who tried to seat us in the entrance hall way which we refused and fortunately for us, a table opened up in the 'drinking only' section which we quickly nabbed. The chocolat chaud was good but not quite as good as the on from the restaurant on tete ronde. We eventually headed home for a late lunch of cheese, tomato and lettuce on baguette which, just like yesterday and every day before that, was scrumptious. Carl commented on how, when he was sick and stayed home for the day, he was thinking how ordinary the fare was; today however, he was in full agreement as to just how tasty it was.

After lunch, with much trepidation, we decided to do 'Roc'n Bob' which is a toboggan run. The instigator was, of course, Alistair but with yesterdays escapades in BK Park fresh in our mind all the adults were a little anxious. We needn't have been, it was great fun and even if you have a really good spill there wasn't any way that you could seriously injure yourself. The following photo's were by Kirsten because I was having way too good a time flying down the run while taking a video of the proceedings.
Alistair showing how it should be done after collecting yet another piste marker which had to be put back into the snow.
Megan the maniac after showing us all how to ride the edge of the wave. Carl had visions of her going of the back and doing a little off-piste in a toboggan.
Carl being closely shadowed by Roland who is filming. I was hoping for a close up of a whoopsy right in front of me. Carl was being very uncooperative, possibly due to not wanting three GT stripes from the runners of my toboggan on his noggin.
All of us very happy to have finished, it was great fun.

The next order of the day was to go and watch the 'Russian Christmas' which meant we all dressed up warmly and padded down the icy path to bruyere which is one of the village-lets within Les Menuires. Just next to the place that the the demonstration took place was an open air swimming pool.
People would swim and then get out and have a roll in the snow on the edge of the pool before getting back in. It must be fun, if you enjoy that sort of thing, or if you are really trying too hard to impress a girl. The 'Russian Christmas' consisted of a torchlight descent by the ESF (Ecole de Ski Francaise) instructors followed by fireworks.
My new camera is performing spectacularly well with the monopod that I bought in Paris. I was busy photographing the fireworks and this woman came and stood in front of me to take photographs so I moved but she followed me. By move number three when she arrived, enough was enough and I politely pointed out that she was getting in the way.
The fireworks were very pretty but over quite quickly at which point the 'Russian Christmas' started to become an open air discoteque which only served to confirm my strongly held belief that white people (in general) really just can't dance.

Heading home we had these great views of the Cathedral which Megan has been nagging me to take pictures of so now she can stop moaning.

Caron and I took the bus home like civilised people while the van der Riets trudged up the hill in the darkness. Thereafter it was supper before we all collapsed into bed, exhausted.

A piece of trivia, when we arrived we found this dessicated frozen frog on the roof just outside our front door and it has been there ever since. That was until a couple of days ago he was mistakenly rolled up into a snowball and hurled at someone. We don't know who did the hurling and who was the recipient of snowball frog but he is now safely back in the snow on top of the roof out of the reach of Alistair.

Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Thrills, spills and Dentists bills

The title is courtesy of Carl and Megan. The day started well but by the end we all, other than Caron, had had enough of the day. Caron, on the other hand seemed to have had an almost perfect day other than having had some moron skiing across the front of her ski's.

Caron and I started the day by extending her pass into the Val Thorens ski area for 21 euro, we had started out earlier than the van der Riets since Caron is slower that they are and sure enough, they caught us before the Bruyere lift. Just after that Megan took a wrong turn and had to walk back up a slope and by the time they caught us again we were right next to the Caron lift.
On the way down into Val Thorens the pistes were just perfect, there had been another 5-10cm of snow and with the pistes recently groomed it was great to ski on. The following photo is only of interest to someone who ski's, those are my tracks in the foreground and I'm quite proud of them even though the slope was minimal. It's not so easy to get one's tracks to look like railway lines.
Once the van der Riets had caught us we immediately separated again, I went up the Caron lift to do gentiane with Caron once before heading for the snow park to catch up with the van der Riets. This is the time when the day started to go pear shaped. I caught up to them and it was quite obvious that something was wrong, Megan had done a little off-piste in the new snow and the fronts of her ski's sank and during the wipe out she broke her front tooth on the ski pole. Fortunately there wasn't any blood, just an exposed nerve which at -9 deg C must have been quite painful. Carl had this very stoic resigned look on his face, his last three days have consisted of skiing while feeling terrible, taking the day off to recover and now most of the day is going to involve sitting in dentist rooms.

So while the van der Riets headed back to incur more medical bills, I ventured forth into the valley below the Renod and Bouchet glaciers which proved to be very hard work. The day after snow is definitely the most beautiful day to be out but, from a skiing point of view, it's really hard work. Lots of moguls and uneven and soft pistes to negotiate. My route was
  • Up the grand fond lift and down gentianes (not the same one Caron is doing)
  • Up the peyron lift and down peyron
  • Back up the peyron lift and down peyron again
  • Up the rosael lift and down chamois, eteriou and the end of fond and back down to the Caron lift.
The wind at the top of the col between the valleys was something else, you had to actively walk downhill, skiing was not an option and even managing the ski poles was a mission. The best method was to drag them forward on the ground before planting them, actually lifting them up like one normally does just results in a plant next to one's boot which isn't very useful when trying to move forward. I tried to stop in front of a piste map but before I knew it, the wind had blown me past it and trying to manage a paper map would have been completely impossible so I didn't even try. Peyron was quite hard work but I think that tomorrow when the snow has compacted a little it would be a very nice run.
I met up with Caron at Chalet de Caron pictured below, she had been going up and down gentiane the whole time. She says that she did it 7 times so I think that I am safe to say that she really enjoyed it. This is just as well considering the effort and trauma not to mention expense experienced in getting her here.
I just had to take a photograph with Caron under the sign at the entrance, I just couldn't get a break when there wasn't anyone else on the steps.
We both headed back down and met the van der Riets at home for some lunch. After lunch we headed out in the gloom to BK park at Alistairs instigation which was definitely a mistake. The park is like a toboggan run but done on ski's and snowboards and in the gloom it was really difficult to see the bumps and drops not to mention the camber and, most importantly, the edges. As a result I skied into thin air and down a small drop of 3 or 4 metres, nothing damaged but not enjoying the ride at all. Caught up with Kirsten and Carl and Alistair and started again but now there were skiers and snowboarders shouldering their way past because we were obviously going too slow. As a result, Kirsten was forced too close to some netting and when she turned her ski's caught and she did a backwards somersault down another 3 or 4 metre embankment. I'm not sure whether I was watching Kirsten backflip or the guy behind caught my ski's but I also went down and then the whole queue of people behind ploughed into me. Again, nothing really damaged but by now we had all had enough and decided to call it a day. Even Carl fell while trying to avoid running over Alistair although compared with a backwards somersault down a 4 metre embankment it barely rates a mention.

We gingerly threaded our way home and Kirsten and Carl took Megan off to have her tooth fixed and we, almost all, had a running snow ball fight the whole way down the path until Alistair fell and hurt his broken hand. Caron resolutely refused to join the in the childish festivities no matter how many snow balls she was peppered with. While Kirsten and Carl went to the dentists Caron and I did some shopping at the market for a new fleece and bought some t-shirts to commemorate the trip which in our current frame of mind mostly consisted of "I survived" themed t-shirts. The dentist was taking a bit long so we headed up taking Alistair with us and an hour later got a phone call to come and rescue Kirsten and Carl. The dentist only accepted cash and they didn't have enough and the ATM was being snoep about dispensing more cash. I walked down and was able to draw some cash because, although my standard bank card was refused just like Carls, I also have a nedbank one which worked.

Finally, we all made it home for supper which would be Megans first meal with her new dentures. Between Megan's tooth and the adventures at BK park we had all had enough of the day.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

A rest day, sort of

Carl was still feeling very much under the weather and decided to stay in bed for at least the morning while the rest of us went to play on the slopes. I wanted to check out a new route to Val Thorens which would't involve any hair raising descents that Caron would freak out on.

The route I followed was as follows:
  • Up doron lift and down boyes
  • Up bruyeres 1 and down the lower half of paturage
  • Up montaulever and then down into Val Thorens
  • Up the funitel peclet lift and down tete ronde and then 2 combes.
  • Up moraine lift and down genepi
  • Up morain lift and down moraine
  • Up portette and down fond and then plateau to the top of Caron.
  • Down getiane and bd cummins all the way home.
The weather had started out fine but by the time we were coming down tete ronde it had started to snow lightly again. We stopped at the intersection of tete ronde and 2 combes for more hot chocolate at the same expensive restaurant which was just as good as before. While I was waiting for Kirsten and the kids to emerge I watched 3 british girls putting their skis on, very funny, the one was pointing straight downhill and took off immediately straight into a whole pile of nicely stacked skis, poles and snowboards. Carnage ensued with lots of shrieks and laughter.

By the time we got onto the Moraine lift the snow was coming down quite hard and it was nearly impossible to see the slope that one was skiing on so the kids decided that enough was enough and that they were going home. Kirsten reluctantly following them. It was a real pity because both moraine and genepi are fantastic slopes, they're steep enough to really go on but not so steep that one has to be worried about not being able to stop if things get out of hand. I loved the feeling of carving down the slope while the snow is falling even though not being able to see where one is skiing, other than the piste markers that is, is a little disconcerting. I must admit that the chair lifts in the driving snow and wind was less than comfortable but definitely worth it.

I was meant to head straight home after moraine but I couldn't resist another run and ended up going down gentiane. I was just thinking how Caron would enjoy the run as I noticed the name and now that I have found an easy way into Val Thorens for Caron, this is a real possibility.

I arrived back home about 45 minutes after Kirsten and the kids just in time for lunch. By this time it had really started snowing quit hard so we all decided to have an afternoon off and rest up a bit. I spent most of the afternoon resolving a problem with my notebook because it had run out of disk space and computers, in general, really don't work well with 0 bytes available, hence my late post of yesterday.

At about 16:00 it was still snowing hard but we needed supplies so Kirsten and I went down to carrefour to do the necessary. The plan was to take the bus down but after waiting for 15 minutes and no bus, we walked and arrived in town just as the bus finally overtook us. We finished the shopping and went and stood in the bus shelter but again, after about 10 minutes, we decided to walk. This was a big mistake, not only had we been walking for only about 2 minutes when the bus arrived but by the time we made it back to the apartment my arms felt like they had been pulled from their sockets by the groceries and we were both bathed in sweat. Thankfully Kirsten helped with the bags for some of the way. I think that waiting patiently for the public transport is something we are not culturally equipped for. Since both of us were sweating profusely from the walk up the hill we both dived for the shower at the same time and, just like at home, this was not a good idea because there is only enough pressure for one shower at a time. I ended up standing in the shower waiting for Kirsten to finish so I could turn the water back on. The cold water here is not just cold water, it is freezing. Fortunately Kirsten showered quite quickly so I wasn't going hypothermic by the time I could continue my shower.

The snow continued to pour out of the sky and Megan and Alistair spent some time on the balcony trying to catch snow flakes on their tongues.
As darkness fell Carl and I had a cigar and whisky on the patio which was just fantastic. Carl was commenting on how the whisky tastes stronger here as he realised that ice cubes don't melt in the glass here. I was half tempted to just put the ice blocks back into the ice tray to use tomorrow.
We finished the day with a chicken and chips from the restaurant over the road before a quiet evening reading and watching movies.

Monday, January 10, 2011

Ski poles and Doggie doo!

It is rumoured that there are more dogs than children in Paris which, judging from the amount of doggie droppings on the pavements could well be true. It's difficult to judge since french children, unlike their poodles, have made the evolutionary leap to porcelain. Thankfully!

When we arrived at Les Menuires we walked into a beautiful, clean apartment with white snow drifts on the balcony. Enchanting but little did we know that beneath the drifts lurked the evidence of untrained french poodles. It was very disconcerting to have the frozen turds slowly appear from the depths as the drifts melted away in the warm weather of a few days ago, it just takes some of the magic out of the snow drifts.

Skiing entails a fair amount of time spent on ski lifts watching the scenery go by and one of the games we play is spot the ski pole or, if you're lucky, a ski that some unhappy ex-owner dropped. The snow, like with the turds, covers these up with time so the number that we see is only a fraction of those dropped which means that some poor, keeping in the scatalogical allegory, turd has to walk all the ski-lift lines during the spring to pick up all the detritus of the skiing fraternity. I guess it could be worse, thankfully dogs are not welcome on the ski lifts!

The day to Courcheval and back ...

Our hopes for a decent snowfall have been realised, we had 9cm of snow as measured by Kirsten using a ruler on the snow that collected on the balcony handrail. The snow arrived just in time for Kim and Sage to see it before they left on the bus for the 24 hour journey home. It is quite amazing what the snow actually collects on, even the top edges of signs are not immune to catching a frosting of the white stuff. Megan got all creative with the snow that adorned the patio furniture.
Across the road from us someone made this snowman complete with ski's and a scarf which was awesome but it was destroyed soon after the photograph was taken by persons unknown. We think that there is a snowman assassin on the prowl in Les Menuires because no sooner has someone finished a beautiful snowman/woman than the creation is destroyed. The reason for destroying a snowman eludes me so I am going to chalk it up to creative envy.
Carl wasn't feeling so well but we had a big day planned to take the kids all the way over to Courcheval which is two valleys over from us so he literally sucked it up and gritted his teeth while ignoring the sinus headache. The photo below is taken just below our apartment and note the snow encrusted pine trees and the arrangement of the triangles in the composition. I read somewhere that this is a good composition technique but I'm not so sure.
The weather was quite unsettled today, one moment you are in bright sushine and the next one is in heavy cloud which makes for great photographic opportunities because the light is always changing. I had the video attached to my goggle straps which has been great for footage taken during the actual skiing although I find it quit difficult to keep my head pointed exactly down the slope, it is so instinctive to want to watch where one is going rather than some point far down the slope.

Going across the Col de la Loze we had great fun because we were able to do a little bit of off-piste skiing, it is quite disconcerting to look down at where there should be skiis and only seeing snow or small mounds generated by the ski's. There is something very satisfying which I can't explain in looking back at a patch of virgin snow and seeing only two ski tracks through it, yours!
The route for the day, for the record was:
  • up menuires lift and then down boyes
  • up sunny expess lift and then down an unknown slope
  • up roc de 3 marches 2 lift and then down grand lac pelozet
  • up st martin 2 lift and then down cretes, choucas and gelinotte
  • up saulire 1 lift and down an unknown piste to lunch (70 euro for five of us) at the bottom of loze
  • up the loze lift and then down lac bleu
  • up the biollay lift and then down pralong
  • up the pralong lift and down biollay
  • up the pralog lift and down biollay verdons
  • up coqs lift and then col del la loze lift and then down boulevard de la loze and marmottes followed by charon
  • up tougnettes 1 and then toughnettes 2 and then gros tougne and la violette all the way home.
I embarassed myself down the pralong slope by taking a really good spill while the video was going, all one could see was ski's and sky, a combination which should not by juxtaposed against each other. I had been trying to avoid a beginner and picked up too much speed and that along with moguls was the undoing of me. The skiing today was really hard on the knees because the snow from last night soon formed moguls which are tough to ski on if you are not used to them. Even Megan and Alistair were complaining of sore knees which made me feel somewhat better.
Even worse, I took yet another spill, this time while I was completely stationery and just overbalanced and the video captured an expletive that is going to have to be edited out of the footage.
The Courcheval valley is visually and from a skiing point of view just fantastic. I'm not sure if it is a true reflection of Meribel but it doesn't seem to be as great a skiing area. While the snow in Les Menuires and Courcheval was firm and good to ski on, the snow in Meribel was distinctly slushy. I'll try and get back to Meribel to try some of the routes that aren't just transit routes from Les Menuires/Val Thorens to Courcheval and back before we leave.

Alistair distinguished himself on the way back while descending into the Meribel valley by demolishing one of the piste marker poles even while handicapped by having his broken hand wrapped up in a cut-up glove and plastic bag.
It was quite a day, all in all, and I think Carl was particularly happy to get home so he could get into bed. He had been getting quieter and quieter all afternoon and his nose had been getting redder and redder. I think a much quieter day for all of us is in order for tomorrow.

Sunday, January 09, 2011

The high after the low ...

What an awesome day's skiing, somehow because of the colder weather the snow on the runs was great to ski on. I don't have any photo's because the weather was very overcast so the whole day was this dull even light which isn't great for photography. By the end of the day my legs were starting to give out and my knees were a bit sore but it was worth it.

Kirsten and Carl were getting Alistair ready so while I was waiting, after renewing my ski pass, I did the following runs.
  • Petits creux
  • Menuires

We were using the radios to communicate when a very loud american accent came over "Get the ^&*&^ off MY frequency" which just ensured that this was the frequency that we are going to continue using. I met up with Kirsten and Carl and Megan but Alistair had to stay behind and recover. We had great fun going down the following runs and because we are really starting to feel comfortable on them we were really whizzing down even the steep portions. The feeling of just carving down the piste in big curves is just amazing and now that the school holidays are over the pistes are bare of skiers.
  • grand lac
  • pelozet
  • biolley
  • gros tongue
  • grand lac
  • pelozet
  • gros tongue
Time for chocolat chaud which we had at the bottom of the granges lift and then Kirsten and Megan headed for home to relieve Caron who is baby sitting Alistair leaving Carl and I to go and explore a bit.
  • grand lac
  • pelozet
  • jerusalem - red
  • pramint - red
  • gros tougne
After two not so nice reds because they were quit icy although pramint would be quite nice if we were to get a decent dusting of snow - it was time for lunch. We went back to the same place we had chocolat chaud just now and had the french onion soup each, a shared plate of chips and two chocolat chauds (28.50) which really filled us up. The soup is listed under the starters but I seriously doubt that anyone could really have a proper main course after finishing a soup like that. It was great, I must say that I really do enjoy the french onion soup. After lunch it was more exploring.
  • allamands - red
  • petit creux
  • david douillet haut - red
  • david douillet - red
  • menuires
... and home. We must come back with Kirsten to do allamands and david douillet again because they were both great runs. David douillet was very steep and the steep bits were much longer than other reds but the snow was good which made it very manageable. The higher one goes the better the quality of the snow and the easier it is to ski. We had only been home about 10 minute who had gone out and did grand lac and pelozet and despite a couple of falls looked to be much happier. As the sun dipped below the mountains it started to snow lightly at first and then much more heavily.

The photo above didn't really capture the snow falling so I tried the same shot using the flash to highlight the snow.

I'm really hoping for more than a dusting of snow, say 3 or 4 inches. Funny how, even two decades after imperial went out, I still measure distances between and inch and a couple of feet in imperial for rough estimates.

Saturday, January 08, 2011

A frosty silence

I guess it is just as well that none of us are in the medical profession because alistairs hand isn't sprained, it's actually broken. He's handling it really well and has the tiniest of casts on that just immobilises the actual thumb while preserving wrist and finger mobility.

Nobody did any skiing this morning but for different reasons. Kirsten and Carl because of taking alistair to the clinic and myself, caron and kim because we decided to take the morning off to do shopping and generally laze about before collecting the remaining kids from ski school at 12:30.

I have been wanting to get caron up into the val thorens valley to do a run called gentiane which I thought, and still think that she would love. So while carl and alistair took the afternoon off, kirsten, sage, megan and the two of us set off. Unfortunately the only way to get there was to go up mont de la chambre and then down pluviometre which turned out to be a huge mistake. Caron took one look at the steeper sections and refused to do them but there really is no other way to get down other than going down the piste so she took off her ski's which I skied down with and then walked all the way down muttering about how horrible I am no doubt. Kirsten, Sage and Megan got tired of waiting and went on ahead while I nursed caron down the piste.

She skied all the flatter sections but the whole run took so long that we arrived at the run I really wanted her to try about a minute after it closed so I think that the closest she is going to get to doing the run is the picture below. I can't see her putting herself through that again even though the snow higher up is far nicer and easier to ski in that lower down nearer the villages. We saw Kirsten, Sage and Megan briefly at the Caron ski lift, they had already done the run twice by the time we arrived and then bolted for home.

We followed on a bit more slowly and barely made it to the last lift before it closed and finally made it home in frosty silence. As a counter point to the silence, the sunset was really amazing.

Kisten had made a big bowl of bolonnaise the previous evening and we had a great meal followed by some chocolate or coffee flavoured creme caramel which went down rather well. So at least the day ended well even though the rest of it was pretty abysmal.

Friday, January 07, 2011

Of Reds 'n Accidents

An eventful day!

The intention was to drop the kids at ski school and then Caron, Kim and I to go skiing but it had rained overnight so the slopes were all really icy which made Caron very uneasy, so much so that she refused to go up to do the slope (vallons) we had chosen to do. As it turned out, this was a really good decision because the slope turned out to be almost completely iced up and I didn't enjoy the run at all. Kirsten didn't either but Carl thought it was the best run he had done which I really don't understand. On the way down we saw a small boy who had fallen taking an awfully long time to get up and later saw an ambulance toboggan so we think that it was the small boy in sage's class that broke his leg today. According to Sage, he was one of the 'hot boys' which just set off the warning bells in Kim's head. Sage is only six after all!

Kirsten, Carl and I went up again to do les enverse hoping it would be better than vallons but it was even worse, most of the slope was either grass or just plain ice, not even ice with a dusting of snow. There was a narrow strip of about 2m that was mogul-led but ski-iable. If moguls are the preferred option, that means that the rest of the slope was pretty bad.

I then met up with Caron and Kim and the three of us went off to do La Violette and took in a cup of coffee, chocolat chaud or, in my case, vin chaud. We headed home for another scrumptious lunch before I joined the van der riets for the afternoon.

Kirsten and Carl had done the cretes and longet routes while I was out with Kim and Caron and, since the kids had done them in ski school as well, they were keen to do them again because the runs were so nice.

The van der riet family at the ibex at the top of the run which was an absolutely fantastic run, we enjoyed it so much that we did it three times in a row. A minor mishap occurred on the horrible blue run that we had to take to get back down, alistair made an impressive face plant into the ice and in doing do, sprained his thumb quite badly. When I picked him up off the snow the gap between his goggles and his helmet was completely filled with ice and he was feeling quite sorry for himself but he recovered quite well after some hot chocolate.

Kim and my cunning plan to play a trick on Carl finally came to fruition. Carl had been making odd references to the speed with which the whisky was going down so we drained most of the last bottle into another bottle and hid it and waited for him to notice. It took a couple of days but finally we got our reward, carl's face when he took the bottle out spoke volumes and I couldn't keep up the joke any longer, much to carl's great relief. Anyway, kim and I enjoyed the joke.

For supper we decided that we would eat out in the local restaurant to try out raclette which is a local dish which carl, in particular, has been very keen to try out. Raclette consists of a 1/4 wedge of an entire block of cheese which goes onto sort of a roaster which then melts the cheese. One scrapes the melted cheese off and then wraps it with various cold meats or vegetables. Carl seemed to really enjoy it, I thought it was nice but nothing special. I definitely preferred the three cheeses fondue that Caron and Kirsten shared.
Note the matching Sani2C shirts!

Thursday, January 06, 2011

The Great Trek

We are based at Les Menuires which is in the one valley (along with Val Thorens) of the three valleys ski area, the other two valleys have the towns of Meribel and Courcheval in them respectively. Getting to Courcheval is more than a mornings skiing away so Caron kindly offered to collect the kids from ski school and to babysit them until we returned in the afternoon thus giving us enough time to get there and back.

We dropped the kids off at ski school, I skied down following Sage and Kim who are both doing well, and then set off. We had a few navigation mishaps which weren't so much from miss reading the map as not following the pistes correctly. It is not always such a clear cut thing here exactly which way a piste goes, they seem to diverge and join up or join up on another piste, it's all very confusing. We found ourselves at the top of 3 marches Saulire which only had a red run (alouette) going down from it into the Meribel valley so it was time to negotiate our first red which we accomplished with a reasonable degree of elegance. Fortunately, it wasn't so long before we joined up with a very long and boring blue (ours) all the way down to Meribel from where we caught the lift up to Sauire where our only choices of route were red or black - again. So red it was, we're starting to get the hang of them now. We finally got to Loze and could drop down into the Courcheval valley where we spent a couple of great hours repeatedly doing the pralong, biollay and petit lac runs. They were great fun and the pistes at courcheval are enormously wide and it is really difficult knowing where one piste ends and another starts with the result that I lost Kirsten and Carl temporarily. I caught sight of someone with a very similar jacket to Kisten whom I started following which just made matters worse. Somehow we managed to find each other and decided to start heading back. There are so many english people here that it sounds like London closed down and relocated to Courcheval.

We had lunch at the top of Coqs which is quite close to Loze and is the location of the great soup bomb. I don't quite know what happened but I ended up spilling soup all over myself, the tray and worst of all, the herring salad. In spite of the herring swimming in a sea of vegetable soup, it actually tasted fantastic. The soup wasn't bad either, at least what was left of it. Spent some time trying to desoup myself, I had to clean my salopettes, my jacket and my boots but in spite of this, this lunch will be remembered for the herring salad, and the soup bomb I guess.

The weather was turning miserable so we just headed home from then on and arrived home just after Caron, Kim and the kids returned home. The had spent the afternoon having a huge amount of fun building snow men and women.


We had just finished having a great meal of baked potato and beans and roast courgette with pesto and gruyere lovingly prepared by Kim when we heard a loud bang so we all rushed outside to see a fireworks display just over the roofs of the apartments next to us.

Somewhere, in the house there is another popping sound somewhere which I have barely to notice but is busy driving Kirsten demented. It's very funny but she doesn't find it anywhere near as humorous as I am. I think it may even become her enduring memory of Les Menuires.

Wednesday, January 05, 2011

Oh, no! Not another day of Skiing!

We are starting to settle into a routine now. We drop the kids off at Ski School in the morning and then Carl, Kirsten and I go exploring new areas and then in the afternoon the whole van der Riet family and I go exploring yet more areas.

This morning we took the mont de la chambre and then used pluviometre to descend into Val Thorens from where we took peclets up to to top to have a look at Galcier de Peclet which we didn't really notice for some reason. We should really have a good look at them because they ain't going to be around for much longer. The tete ronde back into Val Thorens was great and we stopped at a restaurant half way down for our morning 'chocolat chaud' and 'pain au chocolat' which was fantastic, easily the best 'chocolat chaud' that we've had thus far. At 18.50 euro it had better be! I think Val Thorens is a bit more upmarket than Les Menuires. Carl borrowed an allen key from the restaurant and managed to adjust Kirstens boots which were proving to be very painful. I made a joke which I can't repeat in the blog but Carl will remember it!

We skied down to the bottom of Caron, not to be confused with Caron's bottom, and took the lift up and then skied down gentiane which was so nice we did it all again. There exists a Mount Caron here so the lift's name is also called Caron which is going to cause some confusion at some time. Obvious double entendre's come to mind ...

Back at the apartment, I had the most fantastic lunch, it was the same as yesterday with the addition of fresh tomato and lettuce which just created perfection. Sometimes it is the little additions that make all the difference.

The afternoon was spent going over into Meribel using faon and lievre which, although listed as a blue, are actually borderline reds. Even so, I quite enjoyed them; I am finding that I am enjoying the lumpy bumpy stuff much more nowadays. We had some 'chocolat chaud' on the way down at a very noisy cafe before I got some great video footage of Kirsten wiggling her derriere to the music as we skied away.

Before we knew it, it was time to return via gros tougne which was uneventful but I think I might have got some good photographs. The sky was dark and heavy but the sun was shining in underneath so maybe ...


Supper consisted several very yummy pizzas before bed. After a glass of wine and whisky of course.

Tuesday, January 04, 2011

A full day's skiing at last ...

This day could be summarised in a single word - "skiing". The more detailed description follows ...

I took Sage down to the ski school while Kim got herself ready for her own ski school lesson. Going down the hill took a while but she is getting it into her head that, if you fall over backwards, it is because you are leaning backwards so i am having a slight influence on her. Unfortunately, it's only a slight influence.

The sun was paying us a visit which, after the gloom of Paris, was very welcome. We are all rapidly finding out that we are all, even me, sun babies so at least a little bit of Africa has crept into our psyche.

During the morning Kirsten, Carl and I did mont de la chambre which we coped with fine but I feel that it will be a couple more days before we are really comfortable on any of the blue runs. We stopped at the top of the lift and had some hot chocolate to fortify us for the run because it was really, really cold.

The morning was soon over and we fetched the kids and went home for lunch which, in my case, was cheese on a roll which was okay but it would have been much better with some fresh vegetable like tomatoes and lettuce on it. Can't believe I am missing lettuce, I normally dislike lettuce.

After lunch the Van der Riets, myself and the video camera went skiing which was pretty interesting and very enlightening just how much my head moves around when I'm skiing. It shouldn't but it certainly does. We did this enormous run down firstly Grand Lac followed by Pelozet and rounded off by Biolley which was a very pleasant run despite the large ice field which was quite disconcerting because it was about 30m of no control. I'm going to blame the ice field on the snow boards although I don't really have a strong case for doing so, I just like blaming things on them.

When we got back we transferred the video to Caron's laptop and was busy watching it when Sage walked through the power cable almost dragging the laptop onto the floor. It was a close thing and I was quite stern without actually shouting at her but she dissolved into tears in any case which meant that Kim spent the next 30 minutes calming her down and comforting her. Just what I imagine Kim could really have done with but Sage really does need to become more spatially aware of her environment.

After supper we spent the evening watching movies or, in Carl's case, the "Big Bang Theory" or reading or generally being quiet before going to sleep quite early.

Monday, January 03, 2011

The first day of skiing, my aching legs said to me ...

"What the dickens are you trying to do to me?"

The pandemonium of last night continued this morning. Getting our ski passes, finding and enrolling children in ski schools and finally getting rid of them. Kim managed to get Sage to the school in time but Kirsten and Carl weren't so lucky and handed Megan and Alistair over to a ski instructor to pass the children over to the correct class. Needless to say that this didn't happen and Megan and Alistair spent the morning being passed from one instructor to the next, even between ski schools which resulted in much unhappiness and comments about how the kids did not enjoy the ski schools here.

During the morning I went with Kim and Caron to do some green slopes so that both of them could remember what they have previously learnt at Afri-ski. We had only just finished "La Violette" and it was after 12:00 already so we headed down to fetch the children and go for lunch.

I was feeling really under the weather so I missed most of lunch, i.e. I was there and present, I just can't remember anything and it was a touch and go as to whether I went skiing in the afternoon or not. I think I was not entirely over the fever of a couple of days ago and I was quite worried that this may be a sign of what the rest of the holiday might be like which wasn't greatly encouraging.

I decided to go out skiing because I really didn't feel like spending it in bed which is where Caron would have ensured that I ended up if I had stayed at home. Happily this turned out to be a good decision and I had a great afternoon skiing with the van der Riets, starting to explore the three valleys ski domain. It is quite different to Avoriaz in that the runs are generally longer and wider and I think the runs here are a bit more severe for the same grade but that is a really subjective assessment of the grading system. By the time we finally headed back to the apartment I was finished and could barely keep my eyes open through supper. My heart sank when, at the end of supper, I realised that it was only 18:30. I had to stay awake for at least another 3 hours and all my body and eyes wanted to do was shut down for the night. Fortunately I had some episodes of "The Big Bang Theory" to help and then I started reading a Vince Flynn book even though it really annoys me the way that he writes about american extrajudicial murders as acceptable because, well, they're american therefore that have to be justifiable. I shouldn't get annoyed because it is just a novel after all but I have a sneaking suspicion that the truth is quite close to fiction in this case. I think the annoyance worked and before I knew it, it was 21:30, time for beddie byes.

I forgot to mention my spectacular wipe-out on a green slope, the shame, where I had enough time in the air to finish the thought "This is really going to hurt!" before I became a snow plough for about 30m. There is now a roland's nose shaped furrow down a section of "La Violette" so I resolved there and then to take it much easier for a few days so I could get my skiing legs back and prevent the early onset of concussion.

Carl came up with the chirp of the day which, I think, is going to stick to Sage. he described her as a "woodchipper" because whatever she has to eat in her hands gets spread out in her general vicinity.

Sunday, January 02, 2011

Oh Travelling Day, how I detest thee!

Travelling days form a significant part of one's experience when travelling both from a time and an experiential perspective but that doesn't mean that one has to like them. Today we caught two metro's, the TGV and then two buses and between each of these there was the inevitable travelling bugbears. The dragging of suit cases that one can barely lift up and down stairs, wondering where to catch the next transport. Are we going the right way? where do we buy/collect/validate tickets? All, of course, in a foreign language. Nonetheless we made it with everyone intact although we came close to sacrificing Caron to the travelling gods.

But before I get into that I have recount the tale of Kim and the turnstile. Getting baggage through a turnstile is not that easy, one has to do some fancy manipulation of the handle so it doesn't wind up on the other side of the turnstile from oneself. Due to some mishap, Kim ended up between the turnstile and the doors which isn't a very big space and if one is wearing thick jackets and handbags and a backpack it is positively cramped; anyway, there she was, stuck, with no way out and unable to turn around, bend down or even climb up. Very frustrating for her, we eventually took all her bags from her and she quite inelegantly shoehorned her way under the turnstile door. Her beautiful new Zara jacket meeting the cold hard reality of the metro floor.

Once we got to the TGV station we had to convert our Internet bookings into actual tickets, easy, peasy one would think. The first two ticket offices we went to AND queued for were the wrong ones and we found ourselves outside yet two more without any inkling which was the one to use. We solved this by despatching Carl into one and Caron into the other while I acted as the runner. Besides the ticket offices there were automated ticket vending machines which should have worked. After several wrong avenues in the menu structure I hit on the correct one and printed one set of tickets, unfortunately, it refused to print the second ticket so we were left standing in the double queue in any case. Sometimes technology really just doesn't work when one needs it. Tickets done we boarded the train only to find people in our seats but Caron soon dispatched then like a good Charon should.

The trip itself was very peaceful and pretty, we watched the country side go by and Kirsten, Carl and myself took it in turns to chortle at some episodes of "The Big Bang Theory". Things got a little more interesting when we arrived in Moitiers because we had been planning on taking the bus or a taxi but the taxi office was closed and the location of the bus station was less than obvious. After a bit of to-ing and fro-ing I stumbled on the bus station and there was a bus about to leave at 16:45, it was 16:40 at the time so it was a run to get everyone on the bus and while they were putting their bags on, I went to purchase tickets. I got back, climbed on board and was just about to relax when I realised that Caron was nowhere to be seen. Climbed back off to find her standing patiently at the luggage bay which was open but the bus driver had told her not to put her luggage on for some reason so she was just standing there, at the front of the queue, ok, maybe not so patiently, waiting. As she turned around to talk to me, the bus driver closed the luggage doors which came down on top of Caron and hooked between her head and her backpack, forcing her down. We were shouting at the bus driver who took way too long to respond before another guy and myself shoved the door back up. I chucked Caron's luggage on and accompanied my little dark cloud up and onto the bus. She was fine but a little shaken by the accident and thinking that we might be leaving her behind so I left her to stew for a while and by the time we arrived in Les Menuires, she was fine again.

Finally, the last bus trip. Same routine again, find out where to catch it, check it really is going to the place we need it to, wait for the next us in the -7C temperature before squeezing like sardines onto the bus. The bus dropped us off at the right place and a short walk later we had finally arrived but our day was not yet done.

Once we had checked in Carl and I went hunting for takeaways and groceries respectively while the ladies took all the kids down to get skis and boots. By the time I arrived back, everyone had their skis and boots organised and we just had to collect the chicken and chips which turned out to be probably the best value for money we will ever find in France.

Some wine, supper and then it was time to turn in. The only outstanding thing that still needs to be done is buy the ski passes and pay for internet access which we'll do tomorrow morning at 08:30.